There are a lot of immersive travel ideas floating about right now, but I can tell you a journey into Botswana is one of world’s most extraordinary. Recently making the trek to the Okavango Delta, I now understand why it attracts adventure lovers looking for diverse landscapes, dense populations of wildlife, and the ultimate safari experience. Prime wildlife viewing occurs between May and August in Botswana, when many animals migrate to the Okavango Delta, so the particular safari I selected for July was ideally planned. And let me tell you, I got every bit of an iconic experience with an unparalleled sense of luxury and drama.

My goal was to take my daughter on a safari to celebrate her 30^th birthday…it actually occurred on her 32^nd birthday because of…wait for it…COVID. Though I was worried about visas and jab cards and quarantines, it was a frictionless process to coordinate because of the service and knowledge from the travel team at Untravelled Paths (UTP). Our UTP connoisseur, James, guided me every step of the way and was patient with my urgent questions and swan mothering. I give him a lot of credit for explaining every detail down to what to pack, how much to tip, and identifying areas where I might save money.

So off we went, my daughter and I, our backpacks stuffed with binoculars and mittens (the morning drives were predicted to be very cold) and bottles of hand sanitizer. After a 16-hour flight from New York to Cape Town, South Africa, where we spent a few days ingesting history and world class food, we flew to Maun, Botswana. Upon arrival, we were driven to our lodging for the night and rested up for an early start the next morning. While consuming a leisurely breakfast and getting the last vestige of Wi-Fi before going off the radar, Moa, our guide for the next few days, showed up with a gentle smile and delightful accent. He quickly settled us in our souped-up Landcruiser with its built-in refrigerator, electronic device charging ports, and blankets. 

“You might want to put a scarf on,” Moa said. Boy was he right, as we bumped along a dusty, sandy road on our way to our mobile camp in Khwai, outside the Moremi Game Reserve. Catching sight of a giraffe or two, Moa began his story. Along with his background, he infused us with a sense of the culture and wildlife unique to Botswana, in preparation for the days ahead. 

And here’s where it’s essential to digress. You really shouldn’t go on a safari unless you’re absolutely certain you’ve got a quality guide like Moa. I learned pretty quickly that not all tour guides are the same. As we travelled through mopane and delta waters, tracking the intractable, we discovered there are all kinds of guides, some who are dangerously aggressive with animals and others who have severe language barriers. Unless a guide has been around the Okavango Delta for years/decades and has lived side by side with the wildlife and people of the nearby villages, you might as well visit your local zoo instead. A talented guide, like Moa, should be able to teach you about tracking lions, what makes the lilac breasted roller so unique, and the difference between kleptoparasitism and endoparasitism. And he (there are some women just getting started in the practice of guiding) should be patient and knowledgeable as you pepper him with questions about the strategies animals use to adapt. This is where I applaud UTP for selecting a guide with a perfect mix of humor, warmth, and wisdom. It made all the difference.

When it’s all said and done, I really can’t decide which part of the safari I enjoyed the most – the sniffing out animals during the day or the overnights in camp. There’s something quite magical about spending time bouncing along hidden paths, photographing waterbirds, and tipping your hat to the local predators. Don’t get me wrong, a game drive is a pretty darn grand spectacle. But I say this with all due respect; I couldn’t wait to get ‘home’ to the camp UTP had selected for us, kitted out by Golden Safaris. 

For all the glamping and exclusive lodges, there is nothing like a private luxury camp. Picture this – you arrive back at your tailor-made site, dusty and thirsty. You’re greeted with a warm eucalyptus scented towel (to combat creepy crawlies) and a cold G&T. You’re given an ottoman to put your feet up on and hors d’oeuvres to keep the tummy rumbles at bay. You take a short nap or catch up with your camp mates, telling jokes with camp staff or discussing the science of mating calls. Dinner is announced and you sit down for a leisurely 4 course meal with wine pairings, fit for royalty. It’s so quaint, so full of romance.

I got to the point, pretty soon after that last serving of birthday cake (because that’s what you do when it’s your daughter’s 30^thbirthday celebration and everything is so delightfully custom), that I didn’t just want, but needed, to go to bed. Bed means an escorted walk to your tent so you can get zipped in for the night with your foghorn for emergencies. My new definition of cozy includes settling into a bunk with all cotton sheets, a flashlight, and a ‘bush baby’, that hot water bottle the staff sneaks under the blankets to ward off the chill.

I’ve spent an overabundance of time trying to figure out how the camp team could spin magic from coulis, couscous, and curry over an open fire in the outdoor camp kitchen. How did they set up and tear down such a thoroughly complex combination of tents, parlor, and dining room for 12, in a day, and move on to the next site in the most eco-friendly country in Africa, where you can leave no trace? And if I asked nicely, would they let me drive the Landcruiser through the Delta next time? 

Poof. I was there and then I was gone. But there was one last adventure awaiting. No matter how much research I had done to prepare for the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans, I was simply stark raving mind-boggled by their mysterious natural beauty. Though I knew that the rains fill the salt pan with water during the wet months, I could not wrap my head around the breathtaking view of never-ending stretches of white salt and a night sky.

Leaving the quirky Planet Baobab dispatch point around noon, we headed through the thicket of baobab trees to explore. We had a few side shows along the way to our overnight camp including a large herd of ostrich sprinting across the landscape, playtime with those social mongooses – the meerkats, and a four-wheeler pickup for those who wanted the thrill. Arriving at our destination as the sun was setting, we found ourselves with some free time to take our last shots of Botswana, as we were departing back to Cape Town in the morning.  While the campfire was being built and dinner was cooking, my daughter and I set up spooky and spectacular photos of a la moon landing caliber. And in the wink of an eye, we were well fed and curling up in our bedrolls for a night absent of sound, light, and a nearby toilet (it was a bit of a trek to the outpost, so I was not getting out of that bedroll no matter what). 

Huddled with bush babies one last time, my daughter and I got acquainted with our pillows. We turned our attention to playing Would You Rather, while gazing at the illuminated sky. “Make a wish”, my daughter said as she spotted a falling star. The last thing I remember is making a wish, rolling over, and succumbing to a deep sleep. Sure hope that wish comes true and I’ll be back in Botswana some time soon.

To experience your own Botswana adventure, check out our incredible 7-night Botswana Mobile Safari experience and 7-night Botswana Desert to Delta Experience for more details. For any other queries, please get in contact via info@untravelledpaths.com.

Written by Emily Main, Untravelled Paths Guest